Monday, October 8, 2012

Pilgrimage To Busan

        I’ve been working pretty hard these days.  Lesson planning, teaching, and finding edible food have combined to take up most of my time.  Sure, I’ve gone out of town almost every weekend, and maybe I’ve only worked a total of sixty hours so far…anyway, the point is that I’ve been feeling worn down.  Stressed.  Exhausted.  Basically, I needed a vacation.  And wouldn’t you know it, my prayers were answered in the form of Chuseok, or Korean Thanksgiving.  As a result of that, I got six straight days off school.  I’m telling you, life is rough out here.
        But before I could set out on another adventure, one of the other teachers came by my house and surprised me with a Chuseok gift on behalf of the school.  I wasn’t expecting anything at all, so I felt really grateful and honored.  The gift came in this nice briefcase-looking thing, and it was heavy.  I had no idea what was inside, but it looked pretty nice.  After I thanked the teacher, I went back into my room to open it.  Inside, I found…a dozen cans of tuna and a couple more cases of spam.  Umm…OK.  Apparently, my friends received such gifts as socks and a “lifetime supply of seaweed.”  I’m not even gonna pretend to understand Korean culture.
        Anyway, after I put the gift away, I headed out to meet some of the guys in Busan.  Busan is the 2nd biggest city in Korea, so it’s kind of metropolitan.  But it also has beaches, and that gives it more of a laid-back vibe than somewhere like Seoul.  As the great philosopher M. Cyrus pointed out, you get the best of both worlds.  It definitely seemed like my kind of place.  Once we all got there and met up, we headed to the beach to find a hotel close by.  In total, there were 7 guys in our group.  Here’s how the conversation went:
        “You think we can fit seven people in a hotel room?”
        “Of course.”
        And so we all crammed into a single hotel room, which had one queen sized bed and a bunch of sleeping mats covering the floor.  It went about as well as you would expect.  We dragged sand back from the beach every day.  We made a mess.  There was lots of snoring.  The bathroom…oh god, the bathroom.  I would say the place smelled like a locker room, but that would be an insult to locker rooms everywhere.  The best part is, over the course of the four days we were there, the cleaning lady never set foot in the room.  She must’ve just taken one look in there and thought, “Nope.  I’d rather quit.”  We were abandoned, left to wallow in our own filth.  It was pretty great.
View from the hotel room.  Trust me, you don't want to see the inside.
At the beach
        Anyway, what’d we do with all our free time?  Most days we hung out at the beach for a while and went swimming in the sea.  One day, we went hiking up a hill to get a view of Busan, and I have to say, this was the one view that was absolutely worth it (you can’t really tell in pictures, though).  On the way back down, we ran into some older Korean ladies, who immediately took a liking to me.  My friends (being the nice guys that they are) sped up, leaving me stranded with a trio of grandmas.
        “English-ee?” they asked me.
        “Yeah, English teacher.  English san-sang-neem.”
        “Ahhh!” they all screamed happily.  “How old?”
        “Umm…23,” I said.  They didn’t really get it, so I showed them on my hands. 
        “Oh, good!” said one of them.  Then she pointed at herself.
        “How old are you?” I said.
        She nodded.
        Honestly, she looked about sixty, but I knew how to handle this situation.  I went ahead and said, “35?” and held up the fingers to show them.
        All three of them cracked up.  They thought I was hilarious.  Then suddenly, the “35” year-old one started smacking me on the butt.  What the hell?!  I slid off to the side and tried to speed up. 
        “Englishee teacher!  Englishee teacher!” they all shouted.  They were waving for me to come back, too.
        “Sorry,” I said.  I pointed ahead.  “Have to go with friends.”
        Luckily, I was able to break away from them without any further groping.  I guess the lesson in all that is don’t give out compliments unless you really mean them.  Also, stay in large groups around older Korean women.


Busan from above.  I couldn't even fit the whole city in a single shot. 



        The next day, we ended up going to this rocky cliff/beach area, and that last lesson was strongly reinforced.  Along the beach, there was a giant row of these colorful little tent structures.  Out in front of them, there were a bunch of tubs filled with live seafood, which old women were trying to sell us.  They shouted and motioned for us to come closer, but we all said no thanks.  That is, except for one brave soul: my friend James.
        James is a hilarious British guy with a pretty vulgar sense of humor.  As he approached one of the ladies, he noticed that she had a bin full of some…phallically-shaped fish. 
        “How much for a penis fish?” he asked her.
        The lady just went on speaking in rapid-fire Korean. 
        “What if I buy two penis fishes?” he asked.  “Buy one, get one free?”
        Then, for just a moment, James turned to look back at us.  That ended up being his nearly-fatal mistake.  I have no idea what the old woman was thinking.  Maybe she was worried that she had lost his attention.  Maybe she wanted to mess with the foreigner.  Whatever the case was, for some reason she decided to pull out a live octopus from one of the tubs.  And then she held it right up to James’ face.  Judging by James’ reaction, she might as well have held up a hornet’s nest.  He booked it out of there.  He’s a pretty big guy, but I’m not sure I’ve ever seen a person move that fast.  It was priceless.  Thankfully, I had my camera out to capture the moment: 
Perfect.
        After we spent some time climbing around the rocks, we started getting hungry.  Inside the tents they had these mini-restaurants, so we decided to check one of those out.  Of course, after the earlier incident, we knew we had to go back and have dinner at that very same tent.  The guys all decided that they were gonna try the “live” octopus (more like very freshly murdered).  I chose not to, and I don’t really feel like I missed out.  The woman brought out a plate of tiny pieces of chopped-up octopus that were still squirming.  It looked pretty sick, but the guys all ate it.  The consensus: chewy and tasteless.  I’m not sure if the lady gave us the same octopus as before, but in the end, I feel like James got his revenge on the species.  
        Once they finished with the octopus, we all split a giant plate of scallops and mussels.  We got to bake the food in shells in the center of the table, and honestly, it was the best seafood I’ve ever had.  Fresh, tender, and it tasted delicious.  Even though there wasn’t a turkey or potatoes, I felt like this was a pretty reasonable substitute for a Thanksgiving feast, and I was lucky enough to be able to share it with some awesome people I’ve met in my time here.  It’s true- my home is thousands of miles away, and so are the people I’ve spent most of my life with.  But sitting around a table on the beach in Busan, watching the night fall…I wouldn’t trade it for anything.  I know what I’m thankful for.
Fantastic meal.

Back on the beach!

Busan at night.